In today’s modern era, public awareness of the importance of skincare has increased significantly. People are becoming more selective in choosing skincare products that are not only effective but also safe for long-term use. One of the active ingredients that has been widely discussed in the beauty world is arbutin. This active ingredient is often found in skincare products, especially those that claim to brighten the skin. What is arbutin? What are its benefits? And how does this active ingredient work? Let’s get to know arbutin more closely.
Understanding Arbutin
Arbutin is a hydroquinone derivative compound that is naturally found in plants such as bearberry, cranberry, and blueberry (Zhou et al., 2019). Arbutin works by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a role in melanin production, thus helping to brighten the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation (Huang et al., 2020).
Chemically, arbutin consists of two main forms:
– Alfa Arbutin: A synthetic form that is more stable and has higher effectiveness in brightening the skin.
– Beta Arbutin: A natural form found in plants but has lower effectiveness compared to alfa arbutin.
Benefits of Arbutin in Skincare:
– Brightening the Skin: Arbutin works by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, which reduces melanin production and evens out skin tone (Kim et al., 2018).
– Safer Than Hydroquinone: Unlike hydroquinone, which has a risk of causing irritation and side effects like ochronosis, arbutin is safer and gentler on the skin (Bissett et al., 2021).
– Preventing Skin Damage from UV Rays: Arbutin helps reduce the negative impact of sun exposure by inhibiting excessive melanin production (Choi et al., 2021).
alfa vs. Beta Arbutin: Which is Better?
In terms of effectiveness, alfa arbutin is superior to beta arbutin because it is more stable and is absorbed more easily by the skin. As a result, most modern skincare products use alfa arbutin in their formulations (Kikuchi et al., 2017). Beta arbutin is still used in some products but is more commonly found in natural extract forms.
How to Use Arbutin in Your Skincare Routine
To achieve optimal results, arbutin should be used in combination with other ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, or kojic acid, and it’s best to avoid using it alongside AHA and BHA, as they may cause irritation. Arbutin is commonly found in serums, brightening creams, or essences (Derm Institute in North Redondo Beach, California).
Regulations Surrounding Arbutin
To date, the BPOM (Indonesian Food and Drug Authority) has not issued an official regulation regarding the safe usage limits of alfa arbutin in cosmetic formulations. However, according to PerBPOM No. 23 of 2019, Article 7, when cosmetics contain alfa arbutin and/or beta arbutin, they must also include hydroquinone test results on the cosmetic analysis certificate and stability test. Meanwhile, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) in the European Union considers alfa arbutin safe up to 2% in facial creams and 0.5% in body lotions. Beta arbutin is considered safe up to 7% in facial creams. Although the BPOM has not yet set official limits, many cosmetic manufacturers in Indonesia refer to these international standards to ensure the safety of their products.
The Role of SIG as a Testing Laboratory
To ensure the safety and quality of cosmetic products containing arbutin, SIG plays a crucial role as an accredited testing laboratory. SIG offers services to detect active ingredient content in cosmetic products, including alfa and beta arbutin, to ensure compliance with applicable safety standards. Additionally, SIG assists manufacturers with stability testing, irritation testing, dermatological analysis, and contamination analysis to ensure that the products available on the market are safe and effective for consumers. With advanced technology and experts in the field of cosmetics, SIG contributes to improving the quality of the skincare and cosmetic industry in Indonesia. For more information on cosmetic testing services by SIG, visit SIG Laboratory.
alfa and beta arbutin are effective and safe skin brightening ingredients used in skincare. With a proper understanding of their differences and benefits, people can choose products that meet their skin’s needs. For more information about food testing services at SIG Laboratory, contact us at 082111516516, visit our website at siglaboratory.com, or visit our office at Graha SIG, Jl Rasamala No. 20, Taman Yasmin, Bogor, Jawa Barat 16113.